Breitling Super Chronomat Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary Edition
A sensual beast with a wondrous and complex internal movement.
To celebrate Breitling's 140th anniversary, the brand has launched three stunning timepieces: the Navitimer, Premier, and Super Chronomat perpetual calendar watches in red gold. We were fortunate enough to handle all three watches, and stay tuned for our in-depth review. Today, we'll start with the largest of them, the Super Chronomat. This watch is truly a work of art.
Breitling has maintained a strong momentum in regularly releasing new watches. Many are new color schemes, but we've also seen quite a few entirely new models. This year, to celebrate the brand's 140th anniversary, three highly complicated watches have emerged. Crafted in 18K red gold and powered by one of the most coveted movements, these watches were seen and tried on during the Geneva Watch Days in 2024, and each one left a deep impression. Let's now take a closer look at the most sporty of them all—the Super Chronomat Perpetual Calendar. Breitling Superchronometer Perpetual Calendar Watch.
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This Superchronometer Perpetual Calendar watch measures 44mm x 53.5mm and is 15.35mm thick, with a water resistance of 100 meters. No information is currently available about future models, but to celebrate the brand's 140th anniversary, this watch is only available with an 18K red gold case.
This watch comes with only a Rouleaux-style black rubber strap with an 18K gold folding clasp. Notably, the watch also features a glossy black ceramic finish, used on the bidirectional rotating 60-minute bezel, crown, and pushers.
Skeleton Dial
For this watch, Breitling opted for a bolder dial design to match the personality of the Superchronometer Perpetual Calendar. After all, this is a striking and dynamic timepiece that will attract attention on any wrist. The skeletonized dial not only reveals part of the movement's operation but also clearly displays the various functions. A grid-like structure suspends four subdials connected to applied red gold hour markers. I'm not usually a fan of skeletonized dials, but on this watch, it's surprisingly harmonious, thanks to several factors. The color scheme, the watch size, and the compact layout of the numerous subdials make the skeletonized design far from tacky; instead, it's more appealing.
It's also easy to see that this watch is incredibly luminous at night. The green Super-LumiNova luminescent coating shines like a lighthouse on the central hands, hour markers, and bezel lugs.
A series of complications arise. At a glance, it's clear that this Grand Chronograph Perpetual Calendar is no ordinary Breitling watch. The top subdial displays the moon phase. The gold hand in the center of the left subdial indicates the date, while a smaller white hand records the seconds. The outer ring of the right subdial displays the date, while the inner ring features 30-minute counters. Finally, the bottom subdial displays the month and leap year indicator. Of course, the watch also features a central hand for indicating the time and chronograph seconds. Furthermore, a tachymeter scale is thoughtfully included.
A Gem in the Cabin
To celebrate its 140th anniversary, Breitling has launched three new in-house manufactured, chronometer-certified B19 automatic movements. The Grand Chronograph Perpetual Calendar watch showcases the movement's operation through the sapphire crystal case back. The 22K red gold rotor is engraved with the iconic motif of the brand's Montbrilland factory in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland. The uppermost plate is also decorated with Geneva stripes. The movement vibrates at 28,800 vibrations per hour and boasts a 96-hour power reserve. Breitling is renowned for its exceptional in-house chronograph movements, but the B19 is undoubtedly a delightful surprise for the anniversary celebrations.
A Bold Beauty on the Wrist
I had the privilege of examining this Grand Chronograph Perpetual Calendar watch closely at the Breitling boutique in Geneva. Of the three anniversary models, I initially thought I would dislike this one the most, but that wasn't the case. Yes, it is large and slightly flamboyant, but it is exquisitely beautiful. Breitling continues to impress with its finishing and case construction. Despite its large case size, the watch boasts a beautifully curved design that fits the wrist perfectly.
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Of course, a smaller size would be better for me, but this watch should also fit people with slightly larger wrists (e.g., 7 inches). Another thing I like is the rubber strap. It's comfortable, of excellent quality, and holds the weight of the watch well.
It proves that Breitling can compete with any major brand in the high-end watch market. Furthermore, its movement foreshadows Breitling's future prospects and the success of its recent acquisition, Universal Genève. The watch's comfort and exquisite appearance are the icing on the cake.
